Embarking on a journey through India by train is akin to immersing yourself in a tapestry of experiences, where the mundane and the extraordinary intertwine seamlessly. Imagine the juddering rhythm of the Indian rail as it carries you across the vast expanse of this diverse land. This mode of travel is not merely a means to an end but a gateway to understanding the essence of India. From the bustling streets of Mumbai to the serene hills of Dehradun, each train ride becomes a living, breathing narrative, etching memories onto your mind. The journey becomes a testament to the country's rich cultural mosaic, from its thousand languages to its breathtaking landscapes and diverse climates. Picture yourself in 1998, enduring the brutal summer of nuclear testing, embarking on a 1,000-mile voyage from Mumbai to Dehradun. The train, once a symbol of punctuality, now stretches beyond 50 hours, with temperatures soaring past 50 degrees Celsius. The metallic burn on window grilles, the scorching wind, and the sizzle of water drops on your face become part of the experience. Yet, as you trek to the Ganges' tributary, the hardships of the journey transform into fond memories. This is the essence of train travel in India, where the ordinary becomes extraordinary, and the journey becomes a character in the story. But here's where it gets intriguing. Consider the protagonist of my novel, 'Railsong,' who, despite physical exhaustion, finds solace in the kindness of strangers. Her journey begins in the bustling city of Bombay (now Mumbai), where she stands beneath the gothic grandeur of the Victoria Terminus (now Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus), feeling transformed. The train becomes a microcosm of Indian life, a place where strangers become companions, and stories unfold. Mahatma Gandhi, initially a critic of the railway system, eventually embraced it, understanding the country's pulse through the rails. So, when planning your Indian adventure, don't be deterred by the idea of ordinary trains. Embrace the simplicity of getting from one place to another, and you'll uncover a wealth of experiences. Share a compartment with strangers and you might find yourself in invigorating company. Food, too, plays a pivotal role on the rails. Despite the decline of dining cars and regulations, eating remains a cherished railway tradition. From farm-fresh lychees and custard apples to the famous vada pav on the Mumbai-Pune route, each halt offers a culinary adventure. In the southern states of Telangana and Karnataka, indulge in ograni, a delightful breakfast of puffed rice and condiments. And don't forget the joy of sharing a 'tuck' with newfound friends. Despite the challenges, Indian train travel is pleasurable, affordable, and sustainable. My family and I embrace the rails for our travels, often embarking on a 24- to 28-hour journey from Delhi to my wife's ancestral home in Assam. These trips, sometimes stretching past 35 hours, are an adventure in themselves, with delays often caused by dramatic events. A station footbridge collapse in Allahabad (now Prayagraj) led to a stampede, reminding us of the fragility of life. A derailment in Bihar and Bengal sent us on a detour, and a night-time collision with a Jeep became a harrowing experience. Yet, these challenges add to the allure of Indian train travel. On a monsoonal morning in Assam in 2012, a passenger train came to a standstill beside a paddy field, with a mangled autorickshaw and three men's bodies nearby. But this is the beauty of Indian railways: even in the most unexpected places, the local and the national intertwine, creating a unique experience. So, hop aboard a passenger train, and immerse yourself in the local culture, from the dress to the produce and the food vendors. The intimate and the epic, the local and the national, become intertwined, offering a holistic understanding of India. Order your copy of 'Railsong' by Rahul Bhattacharya from guardianbookshop.com and embark on your own Indian rail adventure.
